Review: MOI, London
The Fluxx Editors Review: MOI – Where Japanese Precision Meets London Luxury
When The Fluxx Editors stepped through the doors of MOI, Soho’s latest design-led dining destination, we knew we were in for something special. What we didn’t expect was just how transportive the experience would be. From interiors that evoke the spirit of Tokyo’s hidden dens to dishes that marry Japanese culinary mastery with the finest British produce, MOI isn’t just another opening – it’s a design-led foodie statement.
An Immersive Welcome
Set on Wardour Street, MOI unfolds across two meticulously crafted floors, with private dining for up to 20, a 16-cover Omakase Sushi Bar, and later this year, a 40-cover Listening Room, part lounge, part sonic sanctuary.
Founded by hospitality entrepreneur Artem Login under the MAD Restaurants group, MOI signals the start of an ambitious portfolio that will also include ALTA, a Northern Spanish concept from chef Rob Roy Cameron. This is a restaurant conceived with intent: to create a space where luxury hospitality meets genuine craft, and where each element, from the tableware to the playlist, feels considered.
Design That Speaks in Textures
Stepping inside MOI feels like entering a carefully orchestrated performance where texture takes centre stage. Designed by Yodezeen Studio, the interiors embrace authenticity and natural materials: exposed brick, richly grained wood, and textured plaster walls form a raw yet refined aesthetic. Earthy finishes are balanced with soft lighting and subtle detailing, allowing the space to feel grounded, expressive, and a reflection of the restaurant’s philosophy of controlled chaos.
Every surface engages the senses: the smooth curves of the poured-concrete spiral staircase, the tactile walls, and the warm timber accents all create a sensory backdrop to dining. On the lower floor, the Omakase Bar invites guests to surrender to the chef’s artistry, while the upcoming Listening Room promises another layer of immersion.
This tactile storytelling extends beyond the interiors. MOI’s Japanese-inspired dishes arrive on hand-thrown ceramics and etched glassware chosen to heighten the artistry of each plate. From the ridges of a bowl to the gleam of a sake cup, every element enriches the theatre of dining – a multi-sensory performance where design, texture, and flavour align.
A Menu That Balances Restraint and Indulgence
Executive Chef Andy Cook, with a CV spanning over a decade alongside Gordon Ramsay and formative years in Japan, brings discipline and clarity to the menu. It’s Japanese at heart, British in sourcing, and utterly global in appeal.
Our own feast featured a Chef’s Nigiri Selection, Tempura Lobster Claw with curry emulsion, and Wood-Roasted English Leeks with sesame and alliums. Each dish was a masterclass in balance, presentation, and restraint.
Menu Highlights include:
Pineapple Rib Tomato with chilli vinaigrette, roasted nori, smoked tomato cream
Duck Dumplings with Tokyo turnips and wasabi duck fat
Cornish Lobster with grilled peas and clam broth
Tamworth Pork Chop with roasted peach and karashi mustard
Mackerel Crudo with yuzu
Trout Nigiri with chives and sesame
Crab Temaki with apple and Kimizu sauce
Desserts were equally striking: a rich Chocolate Mousse with Jersey Milk Ice Cream, and a rare Shaved Ice Kakigori with English Raspberry and Peach. Pairings of sake and wine, guided by MOI’s experts, elevated the flavours with finesse – service was intuitive, polished, and first-class throughout.
The Craft of Sourcing and Fermentation
Wherever possible, MOI champions UK fishermen and farmers, reframing British ingredients through a Japanese lens. In-house fermentation plays a starring role: tsukemono pickles, Shiro miso, koji, and soy sauce bring depth and umami to the menu, echoing Japan’s most ancient culinary traditions while aligning with today’s fine dining ethos.
Wine, Sake, and the Art of Pairing
Beverage Director Dino Koletsas curates a list as thoughtful as the food: biodynamic wines, rare sake and shochu, and cocktails blending Japanese technique with British seasonality. Pairings are orchestrated to surprise and delight, from an unfiltered Junmai sake with nigiri to a crisp biodynamic white with lobster. It’s a programme designed for discovery, encouraging guests to step outside their usual preferences.
The Listening Room – Music Meets Gastronomy
Opening later this year, the Listening Room will position MOI at the cutting edge of London’s dining scene. A low-lit lounge with a bespoke sound system by Friendly Pressure, it will host vinyl residencies and curated events where music is not background but part of the dining theatre. Gastronomy meets sound design – a new kind of Soho nightlife.
Luxury as an Experience, not a Label
What sets MOI apart is how it defines luxury. There’s no ostentation here; instead, every detail feels deliberate. Lighting shifts with the evening, plates arrive as compositions, service is precise yet unobtrusive. For foodiessearching for the best Japanese restaurants in London, or those craving a luxury omakase in Soho, MOI delivers an experience that balances restraint with indulgence, minimalism with generosity.
In a city of constant openings, MOI has carved a place of quiet distinction. For Fluxx design lovers, it’s a tactile immersion. For gourmets, it’s a showcase of culinary craft. And for those who seek dining as performance, it is one of London’s most intriguing new addresses.
MOI Restaurant
86 Wardour Street, Soho, W1F 0TQ
Tuesday – Saturday: 12–3pm, 6–10pm | Sunday: 12.30–3.30pm
moirestaurant.com
Photography: Eleonora Boscarelli & MOI
